You can display counts for the current file including line count, word count, and byte count by hitting g CTRL-g. This also displays the line, word, and byte that your cursor is currently at. The output looks something like the following:

Col 1 of 0; Line 108 of 337; Word 397 of 1451; Byte 4571 of 18077

See :h 12.5 for more details.